Davidsans Japanese Maples

Choosing a Japanese Maple

This article is a work in progress .I am posting it in sort of diary form ( unfinished and ongoing) since feel it is important to help folks in choosing Japanese maples now rather than waiting until it is totally complete, This article may never be complete as I find more and more things out though my daily experiences with these trees in this area. Even though this is not a complete article it contains enough information to be helpful to a lot of folks ( especially newbies) in their adventure of choosing their own special Japanese maple . . Please check back every couple weeks for additional postings with more information concerning choosing your Japanese maples.

My first experiences in choosing Japanese maples

When I first started collecting Japanese maples it was difficult . I found a few dealers on Ebay that had web sites and tracked their web addresses down ( which isn’t easy since Ebay does not want you to buy direct ).But I did not want to buy off of Ebay because it was a gamble, only small plants available…and NO guarantee of getting a good price or a good tree after a lot of hassle. There was also not many sites on google that looked both reasonable and reliable. Most of those dealers I contacted were so bad at email ( and still are) i never heard back or did so months later.

At that time I wanted all red trees in particular those that kept their red well, were hardy to this area, and had authentic Japanese names. I was also interested in upright non dissectum type trees that were more like what I was used to in this area. Being a big planting and gardening freak with over 2 acres of land I thought containers were an bit silly for me with all that space and also seemed unnatural. I therefore wanted only those I could “plant out”. This made choosing even more difficult and required personal attention from sellers which many ( even those I did make contact with ) didn’t have interest in personal help in choosing cultivars!!. My first trees were almost entirely as stated above.. After several years of severe addition I finally opened my eyes and mind and discovered the wide diverse multitude of fantastic cultivars , many of which were newer , with non Japanese names, and had all sorts of leaf types and colors, and touchier ones I would have never ever considered that that could be successfully container grown grown in this area . I found that container growing was actually as enjoyable and often more enjoyable than actually plant the tree out I enjoyed the challenge , hand mixing of soil , and placement possibilities I didn’t have with planting out the tree.

I now have a hard time choosing my favorite type , color or specific cultivar and it can change daily .If you are just starting out hopefully this blog section can help you and you won’t flounder through for several years like me oblivious to the fantastic and ever changing world of Japanese maples. My one word (s) of advise is don’t limit yourself. Free yourself from any predisposed ideas and be open minded when choosing . These trees are really for two groups of folks: those with creative minds that understand art and beauty up close and personal, And those that are not anal or persnickety about having everything perfect. Both of these two groups of folks will either not appreciate all subtle differences and uniqueness of so many different cultivars , or just plain will get frustrated that they aren’t always as they want them to look they just are a bit ‘outside the box” . If you a true Japanese maple person open minded and artistic , be prepared for a whole new “life” hobby and experience unlike any other you have been involved in.

Davidsans first piece of advice

I would first advise reading Davidsans “Care and Cultivation” section for a good overview . Many of the issues addressed in that section directly deal with decisions you must make on criteria for deciding on what Japanese maple you want. That section alone may answer most of your questions and provide a basis for choosing a specific cultivar.

Your decision can be as easy or as hard as you make it . For most folks it will just be choosing color. If you ask 100 folks wanting a Japanese maple, 95 will want a red one. Period . It is important to realize that size and hardiness are also very important . In addition you can choose from the multitude of leaf shapes and branching types. As I said “we can do this the easy way or we can do this the hard way”.

General statement of JM uses and placements

Remember around here Japanese Maples are not considered shade trees rather ornamental trees . At least for most, they will not offer shade in ones lifetime. They can be considered specimen trees but even if you buy a larger directly from Davidsans, it is unlikely it will be such for many years. I have found it really takes several years for both large and smaller Japanese maples to take off with any substantial growth. In addition as a specimen tree, placement is usually in open spaces for dramatic statement purposes ( although that is not written in stone). This of course is not an ideal place to put any Japanese maple, being exposed to severe sun and heat in summer and little protection in winter It is my opinion their best usage is for placement among groupings of other plants, bushes,flowers and trees in more of a garden setting and best with some understudy protection. The following is some helpful hints for choosing your japanese maple . Always remember I (Davidsan) am just a quick email away and I am more than happy to help you whether you buy from me or not. Your questions as well as your imput is always welcome.

Color

If you are just looking for a red Japanese Maple you should be advised that most if not all will not stay red all season. Your best, and often only red color, will be spring and fall, with many Japanese maples fit into this category . Also be advised shades of reds will vary from year to year and by your location within the mainland. Your best bet is to find the ones that have the most prolonged red during the growing season and the type of red you want . For most folks the type of red is simple , the brightest red they can find. Some others may have more subtle tastes want a nice deep red color , an orange red color , or a multicolored tree that is predominantly red. In looking through Davidsans listing of trees you will find all of these variations. Here are a list of some outstanding reds in these categories.

Davidsans Favorite  Japanese maples  by color and type that are hardy for Davidsan

Bright Red Palmatums:

Beni Maiko

Beni komachi

Chishio Improved

Fireglow

Ruth’s red

Davidsans (fall) ( when available)

Medium to Dark Red Palmatums:

Red Baron

Red Spider

Wou nshiki

Purple Ghost ( questionable hardiness)

Beni o taki

The Bishop

Yubae

Atrolinear

Hubbs Red Willow

Yezo nishiki

Beni ubi gohan

Yasemin

Red Dawn

Umegae

Shojo nomura

Emporer one

Mushashino

Sumi nigashi

oshio beni

Okagami

Yama hime

Orange Red / Yellow Palmatums:

Orange dream,

Sode no uchi ( Seiboldianum)

Ueno Yama (does bud/ early early)

Ueno Homare

Kamagata

Koto maru

Glowing Embers ( spring and fall)

Scoloprendrifolium

Lutescens

Multi-Colored variegated Palmatums

Kasagi yama

Aka shigitasu sawa

Abigail Rose,

Umegae

Oridono nishiki

Nishiki gasame

Higaseyana

Green Palmatums predominately except in Fall

Jiro shidare (weeping)

Omureyama (weeping)

Kamagata

Green Cascade

Fairy Lights

Griseum

Psuedosiebodianum

Tana

Sharps Pigmy

Ojishi

Shishigashira

Most Shirasawanums and Japonicums ( may have some yellow highlights depending on placement)

Koto no ito

Koto  ito komachi

Ao shime no uchi

Sekka yatsubusa

koshibore Nishiki

Hardy Red Dissectums

Red Dragon

Pendulous Julian

Crimson Queen (Too common!!)

Tamukeyama

Octopus

Raraflora

Van den akker

Red Spider Web

Inaba shidare

Hardy Green Dissectums ( some with color highlights)

Washi no o

Germains Girartion

Sieryu

Emerald Lace

Pink Lace

Berrima Bridge

Flavense

Hardy Vareigated Dissectums

Toyama nishiki

Size

Not to be repetitious but this area has the most variables and no clear answer . I probably wouldn’t worry so much about size if you are from this area, Japanese maples tend to grow slowly here and rarely reach heights stated by west or east coast dealers. But even here, if you plan on planting close to a building or driveway or some such, the best advise for that option is DON’T.

I do see a valid and often critical area of questioning when it comes to garden planting where you want to add a bit of color , style or just something different as a part of your garden theme and you want to do so without over or under whelming the area. Your best bet in those situations is to use dwarf trees , being fully aware the word “dwarf’ is variable and sometimes a bit of a stretch depending on where you live. Also be advised that many dwarfs have are known as “Witches Brooms” that is actually a branch with odd leaves ( shape /color or both) growing on a mother tree that is unlike any others on the tree. That branch is used as scion to graft onto a base acer palmatum rootstock and developed as a new tree. These these “Witches Brooms are identified by having a truncated lobe, basically the middle lobe of many if not all leafs with the top half missing. Although there is no real scientific knowledge , that I am aware of , these dwarfs do tend to be a bit more tender according to most growers with experience with these trees . If you live in a colder area it is best to keep these containerized..

Here are some superior dwarfs for planting out that seem to be pretty hardy for this area. And I personally like . In addition you can look through the dwarf section of the Davidsans web site you can also find many more truly superior dwarfs for planting out in warmer climates or potting. I have so many favorites in this category it makes my head spin.

Davidsan’s Hardy Dwarf Picks

1. Sharps pigmy

2. Ryuzu

3. Ojishi

4. Koto maru

5. Hupps Dwarf

6. Abigail Rose

7. Sekka yatsubusa

8. Kiyo hime

9. Murasaki kiyo hime

10. Tama hime

11. Yama hime

12. Beni ubi gohan

13. Akita yatsubus

14. Beni ubi gohan
    

Type Of Branching

Branching types are of somewhat importance for the garden a setting . A lot of what you pick is dependent on the space you have . The dwarf section is of course for smaller gardens . Many folks fit into this “average back yard configuration . Some of you though like myself have much more space and larger gardens or planting areas. Your choices are Disssectums that can get tall but more often wide, regular uprights , and more weeping uprights.

Weeping cultivars usually don’t show much weeping for many years but eventually will do so . You should take that into consideration when making your decision . This is especially true in tight planting areas with other plants wanting a lot of sun.

Dissectums are a funny bunch . There are a bare few upright types , basically the Sierryu and some other wannabes that don’t quite measure up as far as I am concerned but are “more” upright and have a more open branching structure. Most Dissectums will get much bigger than you expect and even the smaller ones will spread out . So planting them is tricky if you are thinking of using them to just fill in between some other plants. They also tend to be thicker around here even more so than many upright at least when they are new to their planted environment . Some will be better for closer placement than others because of their “more upright” stance , and their less thick leafing with and more open branch structure.

Davidsans Hardy Weeping Japanese Maples

1. Omureyama

2. Jiro shida
   

The hardiest type of Palmatum is by far the linaerilobums ( bamboo type leaves)  in my experience. Why this is so is hard to figure but I have found this basically true with most if not all green and red Linearilobums cultivars .. This may differ for others But I have yet to loose one to any winter.. they seem to take wetness , cold wind very well . Sun hardiness does vary greatly with these bamboo type leaves with some untouched but others crispy by mid summer.

Sun hardiness may have more to do with humidity and possibly wetness of soil, rather than sun . I hear time and time again how foolks fervantly boasting how… “my ____ (insert name of any JM ) never burns in full sun” . i am not going to draw any conclusions on this whether these folks are legally blind , on drugs in and out of mental institutions or just not very observant .. But I will take them at their word they just may have a differnt enviorment. I myself have had several 15 year old bloodgoods in afternoon shade crisp up badly betwween mid july and mid Augustin a hor summer . Generally speaking sun burn gets better with age, but I ahve found very few cultivars that don’t burn , no matter what the age… So I think other factors IE: humidity, type of soil, or amount of water in soil may be the culprit.

Ones thing to always remember, Japanese Maples , like all trees are a natural living plant … they will never be perfect and all have quirks . That’s what makes them so cool . Many folks have a hard time with this because under perfect  conditions ( usually spring ) they are stunning. .. but not always and not all season . My favorite statement to those annoyingly anal folks is simple . If you want a perfect tree go on ebay and buy a plastic one. Go the “pink flamingo” route. And I hope you find a way to enjoy our exceedingly imperfect world , Japanese maples included …

“Perfection is often sought and seldom achieved”… words to remember  and a good fortune cookie saying:>)…. Just a bit of Davidsanian advise for those that are guaranteed to be unhappy or frustrated if they ever buy a Japanese maple.

Tags: branching, Choosing, color, Dissectums, dwarfs, green, Hardy, height, Japanese maples, orange red yellow, placemant, red, size, upright, variegated, weeping

This entry was posted on Thursday, January 15th, 2009 at 12:31 pm and is filed under Choosing your Japanese Maple. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Responses are currently closed, but you can trackback from your own site.