A.p. Ōmato

November 9th, 2009

Issue #3

A.p  Ōmato

Actually this concerns all A.p. Amoenum cultivars .But I have picked out Ōmato as representative of this group and one I especially like.

All Palmatums are desinated into sun categories by leaf shape ( actually there are other parts to this as in size of leaf and fruit and how serrated the leaf is but i think mainly the leaf node depth is the determining factor) …basically how divided the nodes are from the base of leaf. These sub-types designated by leaf nodes are “dissectums” , “Matsumurae”, “Amoenum”, “Palmatum”, “Linearilobum” and “Other” ( “other”not like any of the aforementioned leaf shapes such as the cultivars Mama and Koshimino). In addition Vertrees has added “dwarf” to this mess which in my mind makes little sense other than keeping them separated an illogical way. This is confusing to say the least . Not only is one sub group called “Palmatum” like the species, but the difference ( to me ) is really hard to tell especially between leaves of Palmatum  and Matusumurae and to a lesser degree some Amoenums and  even some Linearilobums ( which with too much fertilizer or at a young age of leaves are more Matsumurae”ish”) To cap it off being dwarf has nothing to do with leaf shape or any other quality except size of tree. If this last paragraph doesn’t confuse you well yiou are “special”

But on the other side of this ID debacle thankfully many Amoenums are usually as obvious to the eye as Dissectums.  Amoenums are the largest leafs with very little seperation in leaf nodes.

The reality of these Jm’s with their unique but larger leaves is that most are  ignored by most folks with few exceptions .

Like  most things in life most folks have a predisposed ideas on just about everything … and  of what they “think” a JM should look like is no exception . Most folks like RED  ( green JM’s are much harder to sell in general with few exceptions)  Most always “red’ frillier ( dissected-  dissectum/lace/cut leaf) or more”separated” leave shape like most Bloodgood type uprights.

As a side note to these preferences and stereotyped mind sets.  A sexist as this sounds, in general more women like dissectums than men (who like upright traditional less frilly ( more manly ;>) leaf shapes). I often laugh to myself how stand – offish and close minded many men are towards dissectums ass well as both genders are to beautiful green cultivars. Similarly most folks men and women just past right by the Amoenums like they are just “Eh” not “real JM’s or at least NOT their “idea of what a JM should look like.. Amoenums are large leaved and not typically what most have seen or read about. They are the just not what most folks have set in their minds when thinking about buying or growing a JM

I have so many Jm’s I personally like those that are truly differnt, But the reality is the vast majority are similar in many ways and only subtly different to the eye of a true JM’ster ( IE addict) .. Thus I find the Amoneum leaf shape both pleasing, and a good way to add variety in my collection as a group of cultivars that stands out and that is not in the usual subtle way only recognizable to us “addicts:”I just find them very cool and special

Here is a late Aug full sun photo of an Ōmato

omato_b

Ōmato comes out yellow green in spring …then turns green with a bronze shade ( depending on how much sun it gets) in summer and then a nice bright red in fall. It has good sun resistance and is very cold hardy. As with all Jm’s it does NOT like wet feet. Size depends on your location .. in northern areas i would say 12+ft in many years but in more JM friendly ares it is a large tree

Check out the Ōmato and other Amoenums and you well find a some really cool cultivars that are not just like what most others have.

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Leaf burn and Japanese maples (the scorn of the perfectionist)

June 26th, 2009

Leaf burn is a very much talked topic especially among novice Jm’strs and avid growers as well. The facts are blurred with some folks having little problems with this phenomena and others a constant problem .

It is a fact that some trees are more susceptible to this than others mostly those with variegated leaves ( white as the variegation ) and those of lighter color especially the yellow leaf varieties. But many others will burn and the cause is curious since it varies so much.

It is also a fact that leaf tip and leaf burn in general seems to be less prevalent or simply “goes away”  as the tree ages. But this is not always the case. I have had 15 year old Bloodgoods burn severely in mid summer heat in part shade .

Add to all of this some folks in various parts of the country have little problem with this on then same cultivar that others have a more major problem .

Now granted some of this may have more to do with  the anal personality of the individual JM’ster .. in that some may see a bit of leaf tip burn as nothing more than “Ehhh” while others become obsessed with it, trying various potions and formulas to stop it, almost always fruitlessly.

My first inclination was that it was a humidity based event and the heat itself was only a part since it seems to be more prevalent in humid areas of the country . Now I think it is a combination of climatic and area conditions as well as what period  during the season this occurs . Basically there is a  good possibility that it occurs with the other conditions  specifically during dormant or nearly dormant periods. In sum  a combination of heart humidity soil composition lack of or too much wind as well as seasonal, happening during the dormant or nearly dormant growth periods of summer . NO there is basically NO easy answer, NO one culprit. But the added effect of lack of growth being the lynch pin may add some light on this phenomena .

The reason for my change of opinion that humidity plays a big part in this has come about from  this current  season . We have had excessively hot humid sunny conditions  EARLY  in the season for about 10 days .. mid to upper 90’s and full sun and dew points in the upper 70’s and NO wind at all … stifling!! … yes it has been brutal . All of this mixed with heavy rains and one of the wettest springs on record and a late spring as well ( cold until late April) . Usually this hot sultry period arrives in July and August , most often mid to late July and early August , when the tree starts going into or is already in its  dormant period of growth. Surprisingly during this odd season hardly any of my trees newly planted or potted or those established that are  planted  or potted have shown any sign of leaf burn or leaf tip burn.. Some have, but most haven’t . Even those that have burnt badly in past seasons or very young trees look pristine. What gives???

So I am now of the mind of adding the timing of the  hottest period of the season and it’s effect  or lack of effect ( depending on when it occurs) on the growth pattern of the tree  (IE: dormant or semi dormant period) as co conspirators in this event,  along with the other more obvious causes. Basically that growth periods/ dormancy and seasonal timing of such  periods as effected by annual weather patterns plays at least some part in this. It would make some sense that conditions in certain parts of the country keep those dormant periods to a minimum or the dormant periods come  in cooler or less humid  or wetter times than others thus mitigating the burning of tree leaves.

I end this blog on leaf burn with my standard replies to those who constantly complain and are otherwise traumatized about leaf burn always  looking for reasons, and cures for this common and likely unavoidable event. .

1. Yes you will likely have leaf burn on Jm’s

2. the more shade you give them the less you will have in general. keeping in mind that sun will color up your tree and shade generally will not.

3. leaf burn generally will become less as the tree ages

4. You may have less leaf burn in certain parts of the country but likely will have some

5. Don’t believe anyone who says they never have leaf burn … and offer then some $$ for some RX glasses

6. Try to keep any anal instincts you may have with your life to a minimum when it comes to Japanese maples. Perfection in nature is really only found in imperfection.

7. If leaf burn and other sources of imperfection in Japanese maples drive you nuts … dig up your JM’s and sell them to other less obsessed individuals. Then go to Ebay and buy a plastic one.. although be advised over time it too will likely fade or otherwise change from it’s current perfect plastic form .

Davidsan

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Davidsans World Of Undiscovered Maples

June 24th, 2009

Davidsans World Of Undiscovered Maples

Issue # 1

A. Siebilodianum Sode no uchi

Sieboldianum ssp. Sode no uchi

Sieboldianum ssp.  Sode no uchi

This is truly a special tree that is virtually unknown . It is super hardy to zone5 at least. It also has fabulous color throughout the season with green starting in a very light shade and getting slightly darker  as the season progresses . All the while having yellow and red highlights … stunning!! . Sode no uchi  ends the season culmuinating in a spectacular display of red and yellow in mid  fall. While it makes it’s way through the season it shows little effect from sun, at least around here, ranking it as one of the most sun- worthy cultivars available . This is a very open tree with great structure and form that grows to about 8 feet but in no hurry to do so. If you ,live in a colder area and want a asain maple that actually looks like a Shiwasawanum Japanese maple. Then you finally have one you can grow without that overwhelming fear you will loose it during the first very cold snap. You casn find this tree available in my “other species from Japan” section.

Stay tuned and check back for more “Undiscovered Japanese Maples” in the coming weeks

Issue #2

A.p. Ojishi

Davidsans World of Undiscovered Maples

ojishi-leaves1

ojishi_tree-fixed

Acer Palmatum Ojishi

The Ojishi is a rare dwarf cultivar not known to many . In common terms it is known as the male Lions mane or head. It is a relative smaller version of the more widely known Shishigashira which in common terms is known as the female Lions mane of head. It is special in every sense. It stays small but unlike many smaller dwarfs is not terribly bushy or stick like it is a “tweenner” , having a miniature branched bush look.The leaves go tightly all the up branches , similar to the Shishigashira . But seem to be both thicker and tighter. The above photo is one I have in my yard for 3 years that is probably 6 years old. As you can see the old growth is dark green and new a yellow green

It can be placed anywhere where space is at a premium and can take full sun or part shade or full shade with only the color effected ( less sun less color as with most JM’s).. it grows well without leaf burn anywhere.  . Each branch is full of small curly stiff leaves all from base to top each one with  great texture and form . It is super hardy I would think down below -20 and leafs out late avoiding late frosts or freezes. Ojishi holds it color well into late fall with a nice mix of yellow, red, and orange .

For anyone wanting a hardy dwarf of outstanding distinction and form, or anyone with a Shishigashira that wants a little brother to keep it company, this is the perfect tree for you. HIGHLY underrated,  unknown to most, and rarely available, Ojishi should be on your next list of “must have “dwarf Japanese maple cultivars.

Issue #3

A.p  Ōmato

Actually this concerns all A.p. Amoenum cultivars .But I have picked out Ōmato as representative of this group and one I especially like.

All Palmatums are desinated into sun categories by leaf shape ( actually there are other parts to this as in size of leaf and fruit and how serrated the leaf is but i think mainly the leaf node depth is the determining factor) …basically how divided the nodes are from the base of leaf. These sub-types designated by leaf nodes are “dissectums” , “Matsumurae”, “Amoenum”, “Palmatum”, “Linearilobum” and “Other” ( “other”not like any of the aforementioned leaf shapes such as the cultivars Mama and Koshimino). In addition Vertrees has added “dwarf” to this mess which in my mind makes little sense other than keeping them separated an illogical way. This is confusing to say the least . Not only is one sub group called “Palmatum” like the species, but the difference ( to me ) is really hard to tell especially between leaves of Palmatum  and Matusumurae and to a lesser degree some Amoenums and  even some Linearilobums ( which with too much fertilizer or at a young age of leaves are more Matsumurae”ish”) To cap it off being dwarf has nothing to do with leaf shape or any other quality except size of tree. If this last paragraph doesn’t confuse you well yiou are “special”

But on the other side of this ID debacle thankfully many Amoenums are usually as obvious to the eye as Dissectums.  Amoenums are the largest leafs with very little seperation in leaf nodes.

The reality of these Jm’s with their unique but larger leaves is that most are  ignored by most folks with few exceptions .

Like  most things in life most folks have a predisposed ideas on just about everything … and  of what they “think” a JM should look like is no exception . Most folks like RED  ( green JM’s are much harder to sell in general with few exceptions)  Most always “red’ frillier ( dissected-  dissectum/lace/cut leaf) or more”separated” leave shape like most Bloodgood type uprights.

As a side note to these preferences and stereotyped mind sets.  A sexist as this sounds, in general more women like dissectums than men (who like upright traditional less frilly ( more manly ;>) leaf shapes). I often laugh to myself how stand – offish and close minded many men are towards dissectums ass well as both genders are to beautiful green cultivars. Similarly most folks men and women just past right by the Amoenums like they are just “Eh” not “real JM’s or at least NOT their “idea of what a JM should look like.. Amoenums are large leaved and not typically what most have seen or read about. They are the just not what most folks have set in their minds when thinking about buying or growing a JM

I have so many Jm’s I personally like those that are truly differnt, But the reality is the vast majority are similar in many ways and only subtly different to the eye of a true JM’ster ( IE addict) .. Thus I find the Amoneum leaf shape both pleasing, and a good way to add variety in my collection as a group of cultivars that stands out and that is not in the usual subtle way only recognizable to us “addicts:”I just find them very cool and special

Here is a late Aug full sun photo of an Ōmato

omato_b

A.p. Ōmato


Ōmato comes out yellow green in spring …then turns green with a bronze shade ( depending on how much sun it gets) in summer and then a nice bright red in fall. It has good sun resistance and is very cold hardy. As with all Jm’s it does NOT like wet feet. Size depends on your location .. in northern areas i would say 12+ft in many years but in more JM friendly ares it is a large tree

Check out the Ōmato and other Amoenums and you well find a some really cool cultivars that are not just like what most others have.

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Choosing a Japanese Maple

January 15th, 2009

Choosing a Japanese Maple

This article is a work in progress .I am posting it in sort of diary form ( unfinished and ongoing) since feel it is important to help folks in choosing Japanese maples now rather than waiting until it is totally complete, This article may never be complete as I find more and more things out though my daily experiences with these trees in this area. Even though this is not a complete article it contains enough information to be helpful to a lot of folks ( especially newbies) in their adventure of choosing their own special Japanese maple . . Please check back every couple weeks for additional postings with more information concerning choosing your Japanese maples.

My first experiences in choosing Japanese maples

When I first started collecting Japanese maples it was difficult . I found a few dealers on Ebay that had web sites and tracked their web addresses down ( which isn’t easy since Ebay does not want you to buy direct ).But I did not want to buy off of Ebay because it was a gamble, only small plants available…and NO guarantee of getting a good price or a good tree after a lot of hassle. There was also not many sites on google that looked both reasonable and reliable. Most of those dealers I contacted were so bad at email ( and still are) i never heard back or did so months later.

At that time I wanted all red trees in particular those that kept their red well, were hardy to this area, and had authentic Japanese names. I was also interested in upright non dissectum type trees that were more like what I was used to in this area. Being a big planting and gardening freak with over 2 acres of land I thought containers were an bit silly for me with all that space and also seemed unnatural. I therefore wanted only those I could “plant out”. This made choosing even more difficult and required personal attention from sellers which many ( even those I did make contact with ) didn’t have interest in personal help in choosing cultivars!!. My first trees were almost entirely as stated above.. After several years of severe addition I finally opened my eyes and mind and discovered the wide diverse multitude of fantastic cultivars , many of which were newer , with non Japanese names, and had all sorts of leaf types and colors, and touchier ones I would have never ever considered that that could be successfully container grown grown in this area . I found that container growing was actually as enjoyable and often more enjoyable than actually plant the tree out I enjoyed the challenge , hand mixing of soil , and placement possibilities I didn’t have with planting out the tree.

I now have a hard time choosing my favorite type , color or specific cultivar and it can change daily .If you are just starting out hopefully this blog section can help you and you won’t flounder through for several years like me oblivious to the fantastic and ever changing world of Japanese maples. My one word (s) of advise is don’t limit yourself. Free yourself from any predisposed ideas and be open minded when choosing . These trees are really for two groups of folks: those with creative minds that understand art and beauty up close and personal, And those that are not anal or persnickety about having everything perfect. Both of these two groups of folks will either not appreciate all subtle differences and uniqueness of so many different cultivars , or just plain will get frustrated that they aren’t always as they want them to look they just are a bit ‘outside the box” . If you a true Japanese maple person open minded and artistic , be prepared for a whole new “life” hobby and experience unlike any other you have been involved in.

Davidsans first piece of advice

I would first advise reading Davidsans “Care and Cultivation” section for a good overview . Many of the issues addressed in that section directly deal with decisions you must make on criteria for deciding on what Japanese maple you want. That section alone may answer most of your questions and provide a basis for choosing a specific cultivar.

Your decision can be as easy or as hard as you make it . For most folks it will just be choosing color. If you ask 100 folks wanting a Japanese maple, 95 will want a red one. Period . It is important to realize that size and hardiness are also very important . In addition you can choose from the multitude of leaf shapes and branching types. As I said “we can do this the easy way or we can do this the hard way”.

General statement of JM uses and placements

Remember around here Japanese Maples are not considered shade trees rather ornamental trees . At least for most, they will not offer shade in ones lifetime. They can be considered specimen trees but even if you buy a larger directly from Davidsans, it is unlikely it will be such for many years. I have found it really takes several years for both large and smaller Japanese maples to take off with any substantial growth. In addition as a specimen tree, placement is usually in open spaces for dramatic statement purposes ( although that is not written in stone). This of course is not an ideal place to put any Japanese maple, being exposed to severe sun and heat in summer and little protection in winter It is my opinion their best usage is for placement among groupings of other plants, bushes,flowers and trees in more of a garden setting and best with some understudy protection. The following is some helpful hints for choosing your japanese maple . Always remember I (Davidsan) am just a quick email away and I am more than happy to help you whether you buy from me or not. Your questions as well as your imput is always welcome.

Color

If you are just looking for a red Japanese Maple you should be advised that most if not all will not stay red all season. Your best, and often only red color, will be spring and fall, with many Japanese maples fit into this category . Also be advised shades of reds will vary from year to year and by your location within the mainland. Your best bet is to find the ones that have the most prolonged red during the growing season and the type of red you want . For most folks the type of red is simple , the brightest red they can find. Some others may have more subtle tastes want a nice deep red color , an orange red color , or a multicolored tree that is predominantly red. In looking through Davidsans listing of trees you will find all of these variations. Here are a list of some outstanding reds in these categories.

Davidsans Favorite  Japanese maples  by color and type that are hardy for Davidsan

Bright Red Palmatums:

Beni Maiko

Beni komachi

Chishio Improved

Fireglow

Ruth’s red

Davidsans (fall) ( when available)

Medium to Dark Red Palmatums:

Red Baron

Red Spider

Wou nshiki

Purple Ghost ( questionable hardiness)

Beni o taki

The Bishop

Yubae

Atrolinear

Hubbs Red Willow

Yezo nishiki

Beni ubi gohan

Yasemin

Red Dawn

Umegae

Shojo nomura

Emporer one

Mushashino

Sumi nigashi

oshio beni

Okagami

Yama hime

Orange Red / Yellow Palmatums:

Orange dream,

Sode no uchi ( Seiboldianum)

Ueno Yama (does bud/ early early)

Ueno Homare

Kamagata

Koto maru

Glowing Embers ( spring and fall)

Scoloprendrifolium

Lutescens

Multi-Colored variegated Palmatums

Kasagi yama

Aka shigitasu sawa

Abigail Rose,

Umegae

Oridono nishiki

Nishiki gasame

Higaseyana

Green Palmatums predominately except in Fall

Jiro shidare (weeping)

Omureyama (weeping)

Kamagata

Green Cascade

Fairy Lights

Griseum

Psuedosiebodianum

Tana

Sharps Pigmy

Ojishi

Shishigashira

Most Shirasawanums and Japonicums ( may have some yellow highlights depending on placement)

Koto no ito

Koto  ito komachi

Ao shime no uchi

Sekka yatsubusa

koshibore Nishiki

Hardy Red Dissectums

Red Dragon

Pendulous Julian

Crimson Queen (Too common!!)

Tamukeyama

Octopus

Raraflora

Van den akker

Red Spider Web

Inaba shidare

Hardy Green Dissectums ( some with color highlights)

Washi no o

Germains Girartion

Sieryu

Emerald Lace

Pink Lace

Berrima Bridge

Flavense

Hardy Vareigated Dissectums

Toyama nishiki


Size

Not to be repetitious but this area has the most variables and no clear answer . I probably wouldn’t worry so much about size if you are from this area, Japanese maples tend to grow slowly here and rarely reach heights stated by west or east coast dealers. But even here, if you plan on planting close to a building or driveway or some such, the best advise for that option is DON’T.

I do see a valid and often critical area of questioning when it comes to garden planting where you want to add a bit of color , style or just something different as a part of your garden theme and you want to do so without over or under whelming the area. Your best bet in those situations is to use dwarf trees , being fully aware the word “dwarf’ is variable and sometimes a bit of a stretch depending on where you live. Also be advised that many dwarfs have are known as “Witches Brooms” that is actually a branch with odd leaves ( shape /color or both) growing on a mother tree that is unlike any others on the tree. That branch is used as scion to graft onto a base acer palmatum rootstock and developed as a new tree. These these “Witches Brooms are identified by having a truncated lobe, basically the middle lobe of many if not all leafs with the top half missing. Although there is no real scientific knowledge , that I am aware of , these dwarfs do tend to be a bit more tender according to most growers with experience with these trees . If you live in a colder area it is best to keep these containerized..

Here are some superior dwarfs for planting out that seem to be pretty hardy for this area. And I personally like . In addition you can look through the dwarf section of the Davidsans web site you can also find many more truly superior dwarfs for planting out in warmer climates or potting. I have so many favorites in this category it makes my head spin.

Davidsan’s Hardy Dwarf Picks

  1. Sharps pigmy

  2. Ryuzu

  3. Ojishi

  4. Koto maru

  5. Hupps Dwarf

  6. Abigail Rose

  7. Sekka yatsubusa

  8. Kiyo hime

  9. Murasaki kiyo hime

  10. Tama hime

  11. Yama hime

  12. Beni ubi gohan

  13. Akita yatsubus

  14. Beni ubi gohan

Type Of Branching

Branching types are of somewhat importance for the garden a setting . A lot of what you pick is dependent on the space you have . The dwarf section is of course for smaller gardens . Many folks fit into this “average back yard configuration . Some of you though like myself have much more space and larger gardens or planting areas. Your choices are Disssectums that can get tall but more often wide, regular uprights , and more weeping uprights.

Weeping cultivars usually don’t show much weeping for many years but eventually will do so . You should take that into consideration when making your decision . This is especially true in tight planting areas with other plants wanting a lot of sun.

Dissectums are a funny bunch . There are a bare few upright types , basically the Sierryu and some other wannabes that don’t quite measure up as far as I am concerned but are “more” upright and have a more open branching structure. Most Dissectums will get much bigger than you expect and even the smaller ones will spread out . So planting them is tricky if you are thinking of using them to just fill in between some other plants. They also tend to be thicker around here even more so than many upright at least when they are new to their planted environment . Some will be better for closer placement than others because of their “more upright” stance , and their less thick leafing with and more open branch structure.

Davidsans Hardy Weeping Japanese Maples

  1. Omureyama

  2. Jiro shida

The hardiest type of Palmatum is by far the linaerilobums ( bamboo type leaves)  in my experience. Why this is so is hard to figure but I have found this basically true with most if not all green and red Linearilobums cultivars .. This may differ for others But I have yet to loose one to any winter.. they seem to take wetness , cold wind very well . Sun hardiness does vary greatly with these bamboo type leaves with some untouched but others crispy by mid summer.

Sun hardiness may have more to do with humidity and possibly wetness of soil, rather than sun . I hear time and time again how foolks fervantly boasting how… “my ____ (insert name of any JM ) never burns in full sun” . i am not going to draw any conclusions on this whether these folks are legally blind , on drugs in and out of mental institutions or just not very observant .. But I will take them at their word they just may have a differnt enviorment. I myself have had several 15 year old bloodgoods in afternoon shade crisp up badly betwween mid july and mid Augustin a hor summer . Generally speaking sun burn gets better with age, but I ahve found very few cultivars that don’t burn , no matter what the age… So I think other factors IE: humidity, type of soil, or amount of water in soil may be the culprit.

Ones thing to always remember, Japanese Maples , like all trees are a natural living plant … they will never be perfect and all have quirks . That’s what makes them so cool . Many folks have a hard time with this because under perfect  conditions ( usually spring ) they are stunning. .. but not always and not all season . My favorite statement to those annoyingly anal folks is simple . If you want a perfect tree go on ebay and buy a plastic one. Go the “pink flamingo” route. And I hope you find a way to enjoy our exceedingly imperfect world , Japanese maples included …

“Perfection is often sought and seldom achieved”… words to remember  and a good fortune cookie saying:>)…. Just a bit of Davidsanian advise for those that are guaranteed to be unhappy or frustrated if they ever buy a Japanese maple.

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10 Myths (Plus One) about Japanese Maples

December 31st, 2008

1. “There are only two types (broad leaf and cut leaf ) and only two colors (red and green) of Japanese maples.”

False: As you will see in looking through this web site there are many different types of Japanese maples and many different colors. Once you really get into these trees you will find your tastes in color, leaf type, tree shape and size will constantly change even from day to day. The world of Japanese Maples is virtually as varied as the types of people you meet throughout life.

2.“Growing Japanese maple from seeds is easy. All I need to is to buy seeds of a specific cultivar 10 seeds for $5.00 on EBay and get ten of that tree cheap.”

False: Propagating Japanese maples from seeds will NOT produce a named cultivar but rather generic non specific Japanese maple since the seed is not true to the mother tree. But there is nothing wrong with planting seeds for fun. Many large growers have thousands of plain green or red Acer Palmatum seeds for rootstock production as well as thousands of sprouting seedlings under their many trees. From these they may notice an odd one with different color or characteristics. They set that one aside and observe it for many years. If in fact it is truly different then it is grafted and propagated, named and sold as a brand new cultivar. This process is long and involved.

But growing Japanese maples from seeds is not like growing corn. You just can’t just pick them plop then in the ground. Harvesting must be done in the fall at specific time, And this is followed by a whole regimen of cold stratification is in your refrigerator for several weeks to several months before you are able plant them. Even then your success rate will likely be slim. Plant 100 stratified seeds you nay get a 10-20 to germinate (some may take up to two years to do so). Those that do make it need extreme care and the majority will eventually succumb without a near perfect growing environment that most of us do not have. You should also remember you are adding many years to eventually having a nice full tree.

Buying a few “named” seeds from EBay is a waste of time and a crock. For one, as stated above, you will NOT get the tree specified since seeds are not true to their parent tree. For folks to advertise a specific cultivar seed rather than “general” Japanese maple seed is a patently illegal and deceptive practice as far as I am concerned and EBay should not allow it. In addition, buying only 5-10 seeds is a real crap shoot. You will be lucky to get any to germinate since you are dealing with such small quantities.

If you enjoy growing plants from seeds go for it. Just be aware you are not “plantin’ tomata’s. You are planting Japanese maple seeds, which creates both challenges as well as impediments to propagating a true cultivar or generic seedling.

3. “All Japanese maples are from Japan.”

False: These trees originally came from Japan or that area of Asia. But many Japanese maples sold today originated in the “west”; in the United States, Europe, and even New Zealand. However, they are relatives (albeit distant) of the original cultivars. These new or newer cultivars are considered true Japanese maples.

4. “I need special equipment or specialized tools to grow Japanese maples.”
OR
“I can grow any Japanese maple anywhere and use the same methods as I would any other tree.”

False and False: You really don’t need any special equipment to grow Japanese maples. You need no more or no less equipment than you need with any other tree. But in many places you can’t just “plant” them. In this area you can’t treat them like they are just any local oak or sugar maple. You need to use a bit more care as explained in the care and cultivation section of this web site.

5. “Japanese maples can’t be grown successfully this far north.”
OR
“I can plant a Japanese maple in my favorite place (wherever I want in my yard.”

False and false: Most Japanese maples can in fact be grown successfully virtually anywhere but may have to be containerized. As far as this area, many can be grown planted out in your yard.

As far as location read carefully my section in care and cultivation. Many areas of your yard are either not perfect or a impediment to the successful growing of many Japanese maples and may be better suited to another species of tree.

6. “When buying Japanese maples, the sizes and growth patterns specified on web sites and books are a good guide.”

False: Most size and growth pattern information comes from growers in areas where Japanese maples are heavily propagated or from books written by people from those areas. Those areas obviously are the best growing areas. If, for example you live in central Illinois, your sizes will be greatly reduced. You will also find differences in the thickness of growth and often branching structure. On this web site I have tried to compensate for living in a “not so pristine” growing area. The result is a very conservative estimate on size specifications. Even those figures may take many more years to achieve than in other more favorable growing areas. All size estimates, no matter where they come from should be taken with a “grain of salt”. The same goes for any mention of growth or structure. A tree here may not look the same as one from Oregon but will be basically the same and identical genetically.

7. “I can graft my own trees; it is easy, anyone can do it.”

False: There are many reasons why this is untrue. If you just want a couple of trees from a treasured Japanese maple you have in your yard it is absurd to attempt grafting them yourself “out of the blue.” It looks simple on the surface but as most of “us” have found out it is NOT. Many ‘how to” books and writings overly simplify the process. In reality for most folks it takes years of practice to get good results. In addition, grafting on the cheap without a good set up gives you very limited if any success (I know this from my own past, sad experiences). Additionally just getting a graft to ‘take” is only a small part of the process. Without the proper aftercare it will in short time be kaput! In sum, this whole process is like most other things in life. You may be able to stumble through, but your results will likely be poor and much more work for those crappy results than it is ever worth.

8. “Japanese maples are best if grown on their own roots.”

False: There is some disagreement on this, with some folks swearing that a tree grown on its own roots is hardier and “better”. To my knowledge there is no scientific evidence of this but generally, grafted Japanese maples are preferable for many reasons. Most important is that you will know for sure, barring any unethical or tagging problems, that you are getting the specific cultivar you paid for. There are ways to propagate without grafting, such as air layering, that allow a tree to be a named cultivar (non seed grown), but without grafting there is no way ever to be sure you are getting what you paid for. Many Bonsai folks do like trees grown on their own roots for aesthetic reasons, without the sometimes unsightly graft. But then many really aren’t interested in having a specific named cultivar like we are. In addition, a well done low graft will be virtually un-noticeable with time. Another method of propagating many trees and plants on their own roots is doing cuttings and rootings. No one, who has had experience with Japanese maples, recommends cuttings and rootings for cultivar propagation. These methods have been found to be unsuccessful except with a very few cultivars. More importantly , with the few cultivars that you can initially propagate with this method, the eventual death rate for these trees is virtually 100%. What has been found is that the trees do OK for a year or so but eventually die. It seems like a dream come true, since rooting is so easy, but as many large distributors have found, it eventually turns into a complete nightmare.

9. “Dissectums should be high grafted. High grafting allows Dissectums to grow properly.”

False: I feel just the opposite. All Japanese maples should be low grafted. It leaves the least noticeable graft and gives the most natural look. Dissectums are grafted high to keep them off the ground. This goal can easily be obtained by staking, as I show how to stake in my Care and Cultivation section. The real reason this myth is propagated is that high grafting is MUCH easier and faster and used extensively by large propagators as the most efficient way to produce in high quantities. Add to that, they can achieve a taller tree in much less time. Some dissectums are grafted at 24 – 36” from dirt level, occasionally higher. What you have is a 6-12” cultivar on a 36” rootstock advertised as a 48” tall specimen. That adds up to more money for the seller and a totally unethical situation IMHO. As pointed out by someone replying to this post this matter is all personal preferably .. but I think even he would not be overly happy with a 36*- 48″ graft. On a visit to a local big box store this spring i saw some of these “POM POM” attrocities  for $99 and i persoanlly wouldn’t want these perverted trees in my yard .. Unless I  had lots of $$ , a golf club , and wanted to “Caddy Shack” them ..

10. “You can identify this Japanese maple tree in my yard.”

False: There are things that are absolute in life such as death and taxes. Unfortunately being able to visually identify a specific Japanese maple cultivar with 100% certainty isn’t one of them. There are several reasons for this. First, your tree may be seed-grown guaranteeing that it is not a named cultivar. Many older trees that may have been grafted lose there graft “markings so it is impossible to tell whether they are seed grown or not. Second, many Japanese maples are similar to each other in color, leaf type and many other visible ways. The actual differences in many cultivars can be very subtle. Even with the ones that are VERY distinctive you cannot guarantee an ID although you could give a “likely” ID. There are also many differences brought about by environmental conditions that could also make the actual subtle differences in appearance even more obscure. Finally, the number of different cultivars that have been produced over the years is astonishing and may possibly number a thousand. A person would be hard pressed to know all of them in any intimate way. In my opinion it be unethical for even the most expert old-time Japanese maple grower or even J.D. Vertrees himself to give a 100% guaranteed ID on any Japanese maple.

11. “Buying a Japanese maple from a big box store is a good way to to obtain one cheaply, especially at ‘end of season’ sales.”

False: Yes, you can get a pretty inexpensive tree from a big box store, and you can, if you’re lucky, come out just great. But selection is very limited especially in this part of the country. The biggest problems are mis-tagging, lack of any tag, and lack of any proper care. You really can’t be assured of what you are getting since you are dealing with a store that is at least once removed from the source perhaps several times removed. A good example of this was this springs visit to a local Lowes store . There were 10 labeled Emperor 1 all actually dissectums likely Crimson Queens . I was going to tell the idiots working there about it but decided it wasn’rt worth the trouble. This was a glaring example .. but gives you an idea of thhow dicey buying from big box stores is for an avid Jmster. In addition, you are buying highly massed produced trees making them rather un-special. Buying at end of season is even less desirable. What you are likely getting is the rejects for various reasons. And most are in very bad shape having been basically set out and left on their own with little watering or care, often in direct hot sun, and sold for what ever the store can get for them. Their attitude is the selling season is over “why bother”.

Davidsans Japanese Maples is not trying to make big profits on these trees. We are in business to mainly to promote Japanese maples in this area barren of these beautiful trees, and if we make a little profit that is a plus. We hope to offer a competitively priced tree that is better in every way from any you will buy at those mass merchandisers.

12. “Muti grafted Japanese maples are cool”

False:   This is of course personal preference . I though,  think the use of such should be kept for apples pears and other fruited trees that look basically the same as far as color and leaf. I am sure there are a few artisic grafters out there  ( that may be an oxymoron .. most growers are NOT artists)   that could color coordinate and match two or more  trees with similar growth patterns and siting requirments  that would look great on one trunk… but overall this most oftem turns out to look rediculous … only admired by suburban nudnicks who have no sense of taste and want a tree that draws attention, and they DO achieve that … but so do Pink Flamigos and pink houses . Add to that the use of such for northeners is dicey since all multiple grafts  may not all have the same light cold or heat taking qualities  leaving one major grower and one or more shrimps making the tree look even moere of an atrocity .

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