Davidsans World Of Undiscovered Maples
Issue # 1
A. Siebilodianum Sode no uchi
Sieboldianum ssp. Sode no uchi
This is truly a special tree that is virtually unknown . It is super hardy to zone5 at least. It also has fabulous color throughout the season with green starting in a very light shade and getting slightly darker as the season progresses . All the while having yellow and red highlights … stunning!! . Sode no uchi ends the season culmuinating in a spectacular display of red and yellow in mid fall. While it makes it’s way through the season it shows little effect from sun, at least around here, ranking it as one of the most sun- worthy cultivars available . This is a very open tree with great structure and form that grows to about 8 feet but in no hurry to do so. If you ,live in a colder area and want a asain maple that actually looks like a Shiwasawanum Japanese maple. Then you finally have one you can grow without that overwhelming fear you will loose it during the first very cold snap. You casn find this tree available in my “other species from Japan” section.
Stay tuned and check back for more “Undiscovered Japanese Maples” in the coming weeks
Issue #2
A.p. Ojishi
Davidsans World of Undiscovered Maples
Acer Palmatum Ojishi
The Ojishi is a rare dwarf cultivar not known to many . In common terms it is known as the male Lions mane or head. It is a relative smaller version of the more widely known Shishigashira which in common terms is known as the female Lions mane of head. It is special in every sense. It stays small but unlike many smaller dwarfs is not terribly bushy or stick like it is a “tweenner” , having a miniature branched bush look.The leaves go tightly all the up branches , similar to the Shishigashira . But seem to be both thicker and tighter. The above photo is one I have in my yard for 3 years that is probably 6 years old. As you can see the old growth is dark green and new a yellow green
It can be placed anywhere where space is at a premium and can take full sun or part shade or full shade with only the color effected ( less sun less color as with most JM’s).. it grows well without leaf burn anywhere. . Each branch is full of small curly stiff leaves all from base to top each one with great texture and form . It is super hardy I would think down below -20 and leafs out late avoiding late frosts or freezes. Ojishi holds it color well into late fall with a nice mix of yellow, red, and orange .
For anyone wanting a hardy dwarf of outstanding distinction and form, or anyone with a Shishigashira that wants a little brother to keep it company, this is the perfect tree for you. HIGHLY underrated, unknown to most, and rarely available, Ojishi should be on your next list of “must have “dwarf Japanese maple cultivars.
Issue #3
A.p Ōmato
Actually this concerns all A.p. Amoenum cultivars .But I have picked out Ōmato as representative of this group and one I especially like.
All Palmatums are desinated into sun categories by leaf shape ( actually there are other parts to this as in size of leaf and fruit and how serrated the leaf is but i think mainly the leaf node depth is the determining factor) …basically how divided the nodes are from the base of leaf. These sub-types designated by leaf nodes are “dissectums” , “Matsumurae”, “Amoenum”, “Palmatum”, “Linearilobum” and “Other” ( “other”not like any of the aforementioned leaf shapes such as the cultivars Mama and Koshimino). In addition Vertrees has added “dwarf” to this mess which in my mind makes little sense other than keeping them separated an illogical way. This is confusing to say the least . Not only is one sub group called “Palmatum” like the species, but the difference ( to me ) is really hard to tell especially between leaves of Palmatum and Matusumurae and to a lesser degree some Amoenums and even some Linearilobums ( which with too much fertilizer or at a young age of leaves are more Matsumurae”ish”) To cap it off being dwarf has nothing to do with leaf shape or any other quality except size of tree. If this last paragraph doesn’t confuse you well yiou are “special”
But on the other side of this ID debacle thankfully many Amoenums are usually as obvious to the eye as Dissectums. Amoenums are the largest leafs with very little seperation in leaf nodes.
The reality of these Jm’s with their unique but larger leaves is that most are ignored by most folks with few exceptions .
Like most things in life most folks have a predisposed ideas on just about everything … and of what they “think” a JM should look like is no exception . Most folks like RED ( green JM’s are much harder to sell in general with few exceptions) Most always “red’ frillier ( dissected- dissectum/lace/cut leaf) or more”separated” leave shape like most Bloodgood type uprights.
As a side note to these preferences and stereotyped mind sets. A sexist as this sounds, in general more women like dissectums than men (who like upright traditional less frilly ( more manly ;>) leaf shapes). I often laugh to myself how stand – offish and close minded many men are towards dissectums ass well as both genders are to beautiful green cultivars. Similarly most folks men and women just past right by the Amoenums like they are just “Eh” not “real JM’s or at least NOT their “idea of what a JM should look like.. Amoenums are large leaved and not typically what most have seen or read about. They are the just not what most folks have set in their minds when thinking about buying or growing a JM
I have so many Jm’s I personally like those that are truly differnt, But the reality is the vast majority are similar in many ways and only subtly different to the eye of a true JM’ster ( IE addict) .. Thus I find the Amoneum leaf shape both pleasing, and a good way to add variety in my collection as a group of cultivars that stands out and that is not in the usual subtle way only recognizable to us “addicts:”I just find them very cool and special
Here is a late Aug full sun photo of an Ōmato
A.p. Ōmato
Leaf burn and Japanese maples (the scorn of the perfectionist)
June 26th, 2009Leaf burn is a very much talked topic especially among novice Jm’strs and avid growers as well. The facts are blurred with some folks having little problems with this phenomena and others a constant problem .
It is a fact that some trees are more susceptible to this than others mostly those with variegated leaves ( white as the variegation ) and those of lighter color especially the yellow leaf varieties. But many others will burn and the cause is curious since it varies so much.
It is also a fact that leaf tip and leaf burn in general seems to be less prevalent or simply “goes away” as the tree ages. But this is not always the case. I have had 15 year old Bloodgoods burn severely in mid summer heat in part shade .
Add to all of this some folks in various parts of the country have little problem with this on then same cultivar that others have a more major problem .
Now granted some of this may have more to do with the anal personality of the individual JM’ster .. in that some may see a bit of leaf tip burn as nothing more than “Ehhh” while others become obsessed with it, trying various potions and formulas to stop it, almost always fruitlessly.
My first inclination was that it was a humidity based event and the heat itself was only a part since it seems to be more prevalent in humid areas of the country . Now I think it is a combination of climatic and area conditions as well as what period during the season this occurs . Basically there is a good possibility that it occurs with the other conditions specifically during dormant or nearly dormant periods. In sum a combination of heart humidity soil composition lack of or too much wind as well as seasonal, happening during the dormant or nearly dormant growth periods of summer . NO there is basically NO easy answer, NO one culprit. But the added effect of lack of growth being the lynch pin may add some light on this phenomena .
The reason for my change of opinion that humidity plays a big part in this has come about from this current season . We have had excessively hot humid sunny conditions EARLY in the season for about 10 days .. mid to upper 90’s and full sun and dew points in the upper 70’s and NO wind at all … stifling!! … yes it has been brutal . All of this mixed with heavy rains and one of the wettest springs on record and a late spring as well ( cold until late April) . Usually this hot sultry period arrives in July and August , most often mid to late July and early August , when the tree starts going into or is already in its dormant period of growth. Surprisingly during this odd season hardly any of my trees newly planted or potted or those established that are planted or potted have shown any sign of leaf burn or leaf tip burn.. Some have, but most haven’t . Even those that have burnt badly in past seasons or very young trees look pristine. What gives???
So I am now of the mind of adding the timing of the hottest period of the season and it’s effect or lack of effect ( depending on when it occurs) on the growth pattern of the tree (IE: dormant or semi dormant period) as co conspirators in this event, along with the other more obvious causes. Basically that growth periods/ dormancy and seasonal timing of such periods as effected by annual weather patterns plays at least some part in this. It would make some sense that conditions in certain parts of the country keep those dormant periods to a minimum or the dormant periods come in cooler or less humid or wetter times than others thus mitigating the burning of tree leaves.
I end this blog on leaf burn with my standard replies to those who constantly complain and are otherwise traumatized about leaf burn always looking for reasons, and cures for this common and likely unavoidable event. .
1. Yes you will likely have leaf burn on Jm’s
2. the more shade you give them the less you will have in general. keeping in mind that sun will color up your tree and shade generally will not.
3. leaf burn generally will become less as the tree ages
4. You may have less leaf burn in certain parts of the country but likely will have some
5. Don’t believe anyone who says they never have leaf burn … and offer then some $$ for some RX glasses
6. Try to keep any anal instincts you may have with your life to a minimum when it comes to Japanese maples. Perfection in nature is really only found in imperfection.
7. If leaf burn and other sources of imperfection in Japanese maples drive you nuts … dig up your JM’s and sell them to other less obsessed individuals. Then go to Ebay and buy a plastic one.. although be advised over time it too will likely fade or otherwise change from it’s current perfect plastic form .
Davidsan
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Tags: appearance, color, damage, green, heat, humidity, Japanese maples, leaf, leaf burn, orange red yellow, placemant, red, summer, variegated
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